Jemez Mountain Trail National Scenic Byway

Coronado State Monument Spanish explorer Coronado was thought to have camped here while looking for the fabled Seven Cities of Gold. On U.S. 550 just before the trail commences, the monument includes the partially reconstructed ruins of the ancient Kuaua Pueblo. Polychrome murals found in an onsite kiva can be viewed in Kuaua Hall, and mural reproductions are mounted in the original kiva. The visitor center displays both Native and Spanish artifacts.

Jémez Pueblo sits about five miles from San Ysidro, the trail’s gateway village, at southern end of majestic Cañon de San Diego. The 3,400 tribal members reside predominantly in the single Pueblo village, Walatowa, where the visitor center and small museum is found. Check out traditional Jemez foods, and striking arts and crafts, particularly pottery, at roadside stands in the beautiful Red Rocks area. The Pueblo offers a 1.5-mile guided tour of Red Rock Canyon Trail most days, a great way to take in the scenery and learn more about the culture, past and present. The Pueblo has preserved its complex ancient Towa language, the only culture to speak this language.

One of the best reasons to visit the Jémez Mountains is this historic mineral springs bath house, sitting on the Jémez Springs village plaza. Dating to the 1870s, the bath house surrounds bubbling natural springs. Owned by the village and recently restored in vintage character. w

The monument protects the ruins of Giusewa, one of numerous fortified villages built some 6 centuries ago in canyon lands and mesa tops by the ancestors of the Jemez people. Spaniards established the Catholic mission of San Jose de Los Jemez here about the same time as the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. The church ruins sit beside those of Giusewa. The ancient name referred to “place of the boiling waters” and mineral hot springs steam through the area. Further up the road, pass formations Soda Dam and Battleship Rock, as well as coneshaped “tent” rocks.

A side trip 3 miles to the east on NM 290 brings you to Ponderosa, a family-owned winery on the south facing Jemez Mountains, known for Rieslings and pinot noir. Tours and tastings.

a popular year-round retreat surrounded by beautiful ponderosa pine forests. Fenton Lake features a cross-country ski and biathlon trail and wheelchair-accessible fishing platforms. Some of the trout from nearby Seven Springs hatchery stock the lake.

Seven Springs Loop Trail is popular with mountain bikers. Cross country skiers will find a trail bonanza within a 20 mile drive of La Cueva. East along N.M. 4, encounter five different ski areas, including an easy 2½ mile loop trail near Redondo Campground and more difficult trails in the Los Griegos area, which offers views of Redondo Peak and Valle Grande. West of La Cueva on N.M. 126, don't miss Valle San Antonio Road, a 5-mile, one-way trip to San Antonio Hot Spring. Soak in the hot spring and enjoy views of the Bandelier cliffs across the canyon. Note that highway 126 is unpaved between miles markers 33 and 13.5.

One of New Mexico’s most popular destinations, Bandelier gives visitors a firsthand look at ruins of many 13th-century Pueblo cliff dwellings hollowed out of the steep volcanic tuff walls. The flat Main Loop Trail, just over a mile in length, offers a wealth of sights, with short ladders into the ancestral dwellings, and many easy-to-find petroglyphs. Backcountry trails at Bandelier climb in and out of deep canyons and cross large flat mesas, showcasing the entire spectrum of volcanic geology. The beautiful 1930s-era visitor center was constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The park’s name honors Adolph Bandelier, the influential 19th- century historian and anthropologist who did much to research and preserve the ancient Pueblo heritage of New Mexico.

The once top-secret scientific community of Los Alamos shaped the course of 20th-century history, and it continues to excel in innovative technology in the 21st century. The Los Alamos National Laboratory is closed to visitors, but the nearby Bradbury Science Museum (below) tells the history of the Manhattan Project, which created the first atomic weapons. The town of 14,000 sits mesa-top among breathtaking high desert scenery, so makes a great base for outdoor activities.

The Museum highlights the Los Alamos National Laboratory's current and historic projects related to defense and technology, and focuses on the Lab’s research into national and international economic, environmental, political, and social concerns. These exhibits, together with extensive educational and community programs, draw nearly 100,000 visitors a year.

About 1.2 million years ago, a massive volcano erupted in the Jemez Mountains, forming a 14-mile-wide, circular depression in the earth called a caldera. Today, visitors are invited to experience the vastness and wonder within this unique geologic landscape at Valles Caldera National Preserve—approximately 89,000 acres of public land managed by the National Park Service. Hike a trail around a lava dome, catch a massive trout in the caldera’s waterways, view an elk herd from an overlook, or stop into the Ranger Station for souvenirs, ranger programs, and park information.

Underneath brilliant night skies, Cuba is located on US 550 in the high desert at 6,900 ft elevation skirting the picturesque Sierra Nacimiento. Acres of adjacent public lands and Santa Fe National Forest offer a myriad of outdoor activities for hikers, cross-country enthusiasts, hunters, anglers, and campers. Cuba is the gateway to the famous Chaco Culture National Historic Park and the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) leading into the San Pedro Parks Wilderness Area. Just a short drive to the painterly landscapes of Georgia O’Keeffe’s Ghost Ranch and Abiquiu Lake, Cuba is a full service stop for those venturing to or from the Northern Rio Grande National Heritage Area. Annual events include the Jemez Mountain Trail Sale every 3rd weekend in October, in addition to the highly competitive Deadman Peaks Trail Run and Motozobra OMG100 Motorcross Race. Every first weekend in August, Cuba hosts the Sandoval County Fair with authentic displays of traditional craftsmanship, agricultural products, rodeo, and powwow.

Itinerary #1 from the South @ San Ysidro:
Start your journey along the Jemez Mountain Trail in the village of San Ysidro on NM-4 heading northeast. You instantly find yourself driving through the Jemez Reservation and the Jemez Pueblo. Here you can view what untouched land really looks like and experience the beautiful landscapes that exist in this part of the country. Stop by the Walatowa Visitors Center that is located here, which will give you a lot of valuable information on the native people and their culture.

As you continue northeast, you will reach the area of Jemez Springs, where you can relax in the Jemez Springs Bath House. The Jemez Historic Site and State Monument are also located here, which is a great opportunity to learn even more about the culture of the area. Battleship Rock is also a point of interest to stop by along the way right before you begin to head east on the road.

Next up, stop and get a great view of the Jemez Falls at a beautiful Overlook located right along the Byway. When you continue east, you can drive up to see the Valles Caldera and the wonderful views of the area. Your journey can continue along alternate routes of the Byway, but this is a trip that is well worth it!

Itinerary #2 from the East @ Los Alamos:
Make the Jemez Trail an adventure to remember Satisfy your adventuresome spirit with a full loop drive that can be stretched out with an overnight stay or two! Starting from the east on NM-4 in Los Alamos, you will wind your way through the tight turns beside the ancient rock formations and residences of Bandelier National Monument and up into the forest to the vast expanse of the Valles Caldera.

Shortly after the Jemez Falls trailhead, you will reach the NM-126 intersection at La Cueva where you can stop in for snacks and the fishing report. Continue heading west on 126 through the Santa Fe National Forest to enjoy the mountain scenes at Fenton Lake and the Seven Springs Fish Hatchery. From there, the pavement ends as you journey deeper into the prehistoric forest. Please assess your vehicle and driving capabilities and consult NMDOT Road Advisories and Forest Service Closure Notices before you go. There is no cellular phone service. On this 8-mile stretch, you will have a good opportunity to view wildlife and large game in these less populated areas, as well as stop for some incredible overlook views of the Jemez Valley. Continue on the paved road as it winds down the mountain and consider a stop at the top of Bluebird Mesa to gaze at the vast mesas of the Eastern Navajo Nation. Pass by the rural ranches on your way to a delicious meal in the Village of Cuba where several landmark restaurants on Main Street serve both traditional Northern New Mexico dishes and American favorites.

You can opt to spend the night in Cuba at a locally-owned vintage motel or charming country B&B where you can enjoy a warm fire and stargaze under brilliant dark skies. When you’re ready, head south on US-550 out of Cuba through the multicolored geologic wonders of the Rio Puerco Valley. You will pass by the impressive Cabezon Peak and through the picturesque southwestern landscapes of Jemez Tribal Lands. At the Village of San Ysidro, turn north on NM-4 to travel up the Jemez River Valley, through the adobe buildings of Jemez Pueblo, and take in the red rock splendor at the Walatowa Visitors Center that includes walking trails, gift shop, museum, café, and local food vendors. Continue on to the artists’ studios, galleries, shops, and old west saloon in the Village of Jemez Springs. Here you can book an overnight room and take time to decompress from your time on the road. Soak in the pools and bath house fed by natural hot springs, indulge in a massage, or sit in quiet contemplation at the Bodhi Manda Zen Center to find your center in the heart of New Mexico. Carry on Hwy 4 through the granite canyon to complete the circuit and make your way back to Los Alamos.